Mae Salong, officially renamed Santikhiri in the 1980s, is a mountain town perched on the Daen Lao range in Chiang Rai province. Founded in the late 1950s by exiled Chinese nationalist soldiers, the village today lives on oolong tea cultivation and maintains a unique Sino-Thai identity in northern Thailand.

Why visit Mae Salong

• A singular history: that of Kuomintang troops who took refuge in Thailand following Mao's victory in 1949.
• A recognized tea terroir: approximately 800 tonnes per year, primarily oolong of Chinese origin.
• A temperate mountain climate that contrasts sharply with the heat of the rest of the country.
• An ethnic mosaic: Akha, Lisu and Hmong communities live in surrounding villages.
• The cherry blossom festival, late December–early January, carpeting the hillsides in pink.

The history of Mae Salong: from Kuomintang to tea

When Mao Zedong's Communist Party seizes power in China in October 1949, following three years of civil war, certain regiments of the 93rd Kuomintang (KMT) Division refuse to surrender. They cross the border from Yunnan, traverse Myanmar, then settle in the mountains of northern Thailand under the command of General Tuan Schi-Wen. Mae Salong is thus born in the late 1950s, populated by Chinese soldiers and their families.

Thailand grants asylum to these men in exchange for their military services. During the Korean War and the decades that follow, former KMT members are enlisted as mercenaries to fight Thai communist insurgents and conduct intelligence operations, with support from the United States. In return, they gradually obtain Thai nationality.

Until the mid-1980s, the local economy relies on opium poppy cultivation. Mae Salong becomes an integral part of the Golden Triangle, a region sadly associated with opium trafficking. From the 1990s onwards, a reconversion program gradually replaces poppies with tea, coffee, cherry and plum trees. The village's agricultural boom and tourism development date from this period.

What to see in Mae Salong

The Martyrs Memorial Museum

South of the village, the Martyrs Memorial Museum pays tribute to KMT soldiers who died fighting for Thailand. Three buildings comprise it: a hall retracing key dates in Kuomintang history, a temple dedicated to the martyrs, and a final section devoted to the town's economic revival since the 1990s.

General Tuan's tomb

On a rise overlooking the main bazaar, the tomb of General Tuan Schi-Wen is a place of remembrance for the local Chinese community. The location offers a clear view over farms and cultivated hillsides.

The Phra Boromathat stupa

Built in honor of Queen Mother Srinagarindra, this stupa stands at the crest of a ridge. The panorama extends to neighboring Burmese mountains.

Tea plantations

The hills surrounding Santikhiri are covered with tea estates. The emblematic variety, oolong, was brought by the first Chinese settlers and remains a point of local pride. Several estates, including the 101 Plantation, welcome visitors for tastings and explanations about leaf processing. The main harvest takes place in January–February.

Ethnic minority villages

In the highlands live Akha, Lisu and Hmong communities, identifiable by their embroidered dress and silver jewelry. Many still practice slash-and-burn agriculture and maintain shamanic rituals. A respectful visit, ideally with a local guide, allows exploration of these villages without intrusion.

The cherry blossom festival

From December 28 to January 2, Mae Salong celebrates the blooming of sakuras brought from Japan and Taiwan. Six days of agricultural fairs, crafts, street entertainment and celebration of hill-tribe traditions. The hillsides blanket in pink, and nights remain cool.

When to visit

Perched at over 1,200 meters elevation, Mae Salong enjoys a mountain climate notably cooler than the rest of Thailand. The best period runs from December to March, with dry weather and pleasant daytime temperatures. Pack warm clothes for evenings and mornings, when temperatures can drop near freezing at altitude.

• December: cherry blossom bloom and festival.
• January–February: oolong tea harvest and roasting.
• March: dry weather, mist possible from regional agricultural burning.

Practical information

• Recommended visit duration: 1 to 2 days to combine the village, plantations and one or two ethnic villages.
• Accommodation: guesthouses run by Sino-Thai families, several mid-range lodges around the plantations.
• Languages: Thai, Yunnan Mandarin and some English in tourism-oriented hotels.
• Money: few ATMs; bring cash from Chiang Rai.
• Safety: the area is now peaceful and accessible without restrictions.

How to reach Mae Salong

From Chiang Rai: take a bus toward Mae Sai and get off at Pasang. At the roundabout, songthaews (shared taxis) provide connections to the village. Allow roughly half a day total, accounting for waits.

From Tha Thon: a yellow songthaew links directly to Mae Salong, no changes required. Departures occur only in the morning.

By private vehicle: the route from Chiang Rai via Mae Fa Luang district is winding but in good condition. Expect 2 to 3 hours.

Nearby attractions

• Doi Mae Salong mountain: panoramic peak above the village with views over plantations.
• Mae Sai waterfall: refreshing stop on the northern route.
• Doi Tung and its royal palace, showcase of the Queen Mother's agricultural reconversion program.
• Mae Sai and the Myanmar border checkpoint, approximately 1 hour 30 minutes away.

Frequently asked questions

Plan your trip

Mae Salong combines easily with a circuit through northern Thailand: Chiang Rai, the Golden Triangle, Mae Sai and the Burmese border. To build a tailor-made itinerary incorporating these stops, consult our Thailand journeys.