Wat Umong
Lost in the heart of the forest, Wat Umong, a 13th-century Buddhist temple in Chiang Mai, attracts many hikers. Curtain on the attraction!
Visitors must navigate through lush tropical forests. Buddhist quotes hung on trees, Buddha statues in lotus positions, and serene landscapes encourage detachment from worldly vanities, creating an atmosphere conducive to meditation. Nestled at the foot of the Doi Suthep mountains, Wat Umong is a sought-after haven for hikers and naturalists alike. Over 730 years old, it witnessed the early developments of Buddhism in Chiang Mai. Discover the monastery's history, explore ancient underground tunnels, and listen to the monks' reflections—Wat Umong unveils the cultural richness of Northern Thailand!
Historical notes
The foundation of Wat Umong Suan Puthatham, commonly known as Wat Umong, dates back to around 1297. Its status as one of Chiang Mai's oldest sanctuaries adds to its allure, but equally intriguing is the reason behind King Mengrai's decision to build it.
Mengrai sought to fulfill the wishes of a troubled monk named Thera Jan. Displeased with the bustling pagodas of Chiang Mai frequented by growing crowds of devotees, Thera Jan sought a quiet place outside the city to meditate, his favorite pastime. Moved by his melancholy, King Mengrai ordered the construction of a labyrinthine temple in the woods near a mountain in Chiang Mai. Workers began digging a series of galleries above an artificial mound. Painters adorned the brick walls, and Buddha statues completed the decor.
According to manuscripts, the temple was abandoned in the 15th century, after King Tilokarat's reign, and fell into obscurity. It was only restored in 1940 with minor renovations to modernize it. Upon reopening, the complex was transformed into a center for meditation and Buddhist learning.
Today
Wat Umong's highlight is its stunning forest setting. Follow a trail of trees and moss; the temple nestles at the base of a mountain range. It diverges from Northern religious complexes with Lanna art trends, featuring Viharn and Ubosot. The sanctuary's grounds include a series of tunnels hidden under an artificial mound. Now you understand the temple's full name, translating to "temple of tunnels and garden of Buddha Dhamma," which contributes to its popularity among tourists.
Attractions of Wat Umong
Ancient Buddhist proverbs
Before reaching the mound, several points of interest deserve attention. Inscriptions containing wise Buddhist sayings adorn tree branches. Here's one that will leave you pensive: "Things arise, evolve, and pass away." Another reads: "Today is better than two tomorrows." English versions are provided on the signs.
A magnificent Zoo
Reflecting on these profound proverbs, you'll arrive at a charming lake home to various fish species. This artificial lake is complemented by a nearby zoo featuring animals like antelopes, turtles, ducks, and endemic birds in captivity. Children will enjoy visiting and can purchase food to feed the animals from nearby shops.
The Ashoka Pillar
During your stroll, you'll encounter a replica of the Ashoka Pillar, nearly as old as Wat Umong itself. King Ashoka, after converting to Buddhism, renounced his violent reign and sent emissary monks to spread the religion throughout Thailand. At the top of the pillar, admire the four lion figures crowned by the Dharma wheel.
The famous tunnels of Wat Umong
At the end of the trail, you'll reach the tunnel entrance. Removing your shoes at the entrance, step into the retreat where Thera Jan meditated peacefully away from bustling cities. The frescoes on the walls depicting Buddha's life are mostly faded or in poor condition, yet monks often gather here for prayers and contemplation.
Exiting the tunnels, continue your exploration by observing the majestic chedi perched on the hill. An adjacent staircase to the galleries' entrance allows access. This bell-shaped chedi is the only example of Lanna architecture at the temple.
The rest of the structure is a masterpiece of creativity. The mound, brick-walled galleries, fish-filled lake, and the Great Buddha next to the chedi depict an ascetic fasting—rare creativity resonates in all these works. Reflecting on the historical context of its construction, satisfying the eccentricities of a troubled priest, visitors can only admire the clergy's influence at the time.
Practicing the Art of Meditation
Today, the site is home to monks teaching foundational Buddhist values. To deepen your understanding during your stay in Thailand, engage with local priests. Basic proficiency in Thai or English is necessary, as both languages are spoken at the monastery. Meditation courses are also offered for interested visitors. Meditation is a way of life in Thailand: it relieves stress, soothes back pain, promotes peace of mind, and reconciles man with nature. Extended meditation programs are available for those keen to delve deeper into this discipline's applications.
Buddha statues scattered along temple trails
Another striking curiosity: broken or mutilated Buddha figurines dot the path. Dispersed on the ground, at the base of trees, and behind rocks, these statues have an interesting origin. Long ago, a monk learned of a nearby temple's ruin and rescued old Buddha images, transporting them here. Since then, recovering worn idols has become a common practice. When locals wish to dispose of an old Buddha statue, they bring it to Wat Umong before acquiring a new one.
Getting there
Wat Umong's location outside the city center shouldn't deter visitors. Simply take a tuk-tuk, taxi, or songthaew from Chiang Mai. Regardless of your chosen mode of transport, the fare averages around 70 baht per person (approximately 1.96 euros). Plan for a round-trip fare, as the temple is in a remote area. It's advisable to arrange for your driver to wait while you explore Wat Umong.
Practical information
The site is open to the public daily from 6 a.m. to 5 p.m. Entry is free for both foreign tourists and residents.
Remember, you are entering a sacred place. Wear appropriate attire covering legs and shoulders to respect local monks and customs.
