Sala Keoku
In the village of Nong Khai, the monumental cement sculptures of Sala Keoku Park are worth a visit. Here's a detailed review!
Enthusiasts of religious art know that Thailand offers plenty of destinations where it is celebrated. Sala Keoku Sculpture Park, located in the village of Nong Khai near the Laos border, is a particularly suitable destination for them. Entirely dedicated to the pantheon of Buddhist and Hindu sagas, this language of statues depicting mysticism is an exceptional work of the spirit. Buddhas, eight-armed goddesses, serpent-like creatures, half-human and half-animal monsters—Sala Keoku Park is a gathering place for art and civilization enthusiasts vacationing in the Isaan region.
History
The thematic park was conceived by the sculptor artist Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat. It all began in 1975, when the communist revolution erupted in Laos, forcing the artist to flee to Thailand by navigating the Mekong River. In 1978, Bunleua Sulilat decided to acquire land in Nong Khai, the city of his birth. To occupy himself during the years of exile, he created grandiose sculptural compositions inspired by religious subjects. Completed after 20 years of work, the future park would be named "Sala Keoku."
The origin of this artistic project is linked to an unusual adventure: in his youth, Sulilat accidentally landed in a cave inhabited by an ascetic named Keoku. Becoming his spiritual guide, the ascetic instilled in him a strong taste for mystical works.
Shortly after his training, Bunleua Sulilat embarked on concrete sculpting. At the age of 30, he created his first sculpture garden in Vientiane, which he named Buddha Park, or Xieng Khuan, reflecting its religious theme.
The second park he built in his refuge city was named "Sala Keo Ku," in homage to the hermit Keoku. The unfavorable political climate favored Sulilat's artistic productivity. The site showcases countless deities and sculptures representing the epics of Buddhism and Hinduism. No patron agreed to finance Bunleua Sulilat. He relied on the generosity of locals to supply him with concrete or cement bricks, and the sculptures were created by non-professional labor, simple volunteers passionate about the tradition of religious art. After twenty years, the dreamed-of park finally took shape. Considering the limited financial support, the scale and execution finesse of the artistic pieces make Sala Keoku Park even more captivating and endearing.
Visit Sala Keoku Sculpture Park
The sculpture park, bringing together deities from Buddhist and Hindu mythology in one place, serves a dual educational and cultural purpose. As you explore the monumental concrete sculptures, you'll agree that mysticism gives birth to masterpieces that exceed the boundaries of craftsmanship and creativity.
The hundreds of exhibited statues enhance the site's prestige: Vishnu, Shiva, Buddha, Durga with multiple arms, polycephalic nagas holding the energy of water and elements, and statues celebrating episodes from the Ramayana… Unique in its kind, each work will surprise you with its form, proportion, vigor of expression, and deep spiritual symbolism. The place itself, crowned with domes like a mosque, as well as the representations, reflect an incredibly captivating mystical art. Among other remarkable pieces, the representation of the wheel of life taught by Theravada Buddhism cannot fail to impress. This emblematic statue illustrates the stages from birth to spiritual rebirth. A true life plan to follow!
The statue of Buddha, protected by a seven-headed naga, receives the most praise from visitors. The serpent Mucalinda coils its rings around Buddha's chest and along his body to shelter him from the storm, while he meditates in silence, unaware of the predator lurking. The smile on the god's lips expresses a serenity of mind that no danger can shake. Larger than life, the statue stands at a height of 25 meters.
During your visit, you'll have the opportunity to observe many other Buddhist iconographies in spiritual contemplation, sitting or standing, in large or small proportions, but maintaining the same gentle and smiling face, as well as several sculptures of animated Hindu gods.
The elephant surrounded by a band of anthropomorphic dogs is also worth discovering—a representation that teaches people not to heed gossip.
At the western end, the three-story white building known as Sala cannot escape your gaze. It houses on its highest floor a sanctuary dedicated to Bunleua Sulilat, the park's creator. Narrating the artist's story through images and preserving his mummy, as well as a multitude of statues, the Sala Keo Ku pavilion remains an essential visit.
Don't forget to be accompanied by a guide to understand the meaning of each representation. The descriptions below the statues are in Thai, and unless you speak the language, you'll need an interpreter to make the most of your visit. It's possible to purchase a booklet describing each sculpture, but the explanation from a guide is much more enjoyable and enriching.
How to get there?
From Nong Khai
If you're already in town, Sala Keoku Park is about 5 kilometers from the city center. A taxi is the best way to get there. You can also hop on a tuk-tuk or rent a two-wheeler for the day.
If you opt for a two-wheeler, head towards the Mun River side east of the city. Passing through Mee Chai, head towards Wat Phra That Klang Nam, then turn left until you find signs for Sala Keoku Ku that will guide you. However, don't hesitate to use a map and other directions to avoid getting lost.
From the capital
If you're coming from Bangkok, you can arrive in Nong Khai by land or air. At the airport terminal, you simply need to take a bus or taxi to Sala Keoku Ku.
Opening hours and fees
Sala Keoku Park is open daily. Visitors are welcomed from 8:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. The entrance fee is the same for foreigners and residents alike, at 20 baht per person (0.6 €).
