A Buddhist temple completed in 1894 during the reign of Rama V, Wat Chom Sawan stands apart for its teak architecture in Thai Yai style, a rare testament to Shan artistry in northern Thailand. Located in Phrae, it complements a visit to the province's grand Lanna temples.

Why visit Wat Chom Sawan

Wat Chom Sawan is not among Phrae's most monumental sites, yet it occupies a singular place in northern Thailand's religious landscape. While most temples in the area reflect Lanna style, this one illustrates the artistic expression of the Shan, a Burmese community that settled in the region in the late 19th century. The entire complex is built from indigenous teak wood with no other structural materials, and its multi-tiered roofs immediately define the sanctuary's silhouette. For travelers interested in comparative religious architecture, it is a worthwhile stop.

History

The late 19th century saw teak become the green gold of northern Thailand. Merchants from the Shan State in Myanmar immigrated to Phrae to work in this industry, employed notably by a British logging company. As the business flourished, two respected Shan community leaders, Hoi Kanti and Kham Ong, decided to finance the construction of a monastery for their people. The temple was completed in 1894.

A few years later, a local revolt led to the sanctuary being pillaged, though it was restored once order was reestablished. Most of the refined structures visible today date from 1910-1912. These embellishment works resulted from collaboration between Jong Nanta, head of the British teak company, and Mae Thao Kui, daughter of the Shan tribal chief. In 1990, Wat Chom Sawan was inscribed on Thailand's list of national monuments.

What to see on site

The vihara and its entrance door

The vihara is organized in two successive halls: a first space framed by side columns, followed by a central hall where columns are arranged in a checkerboard pattern. The entrance door is the most remarkable exterior element: designed in ogival form, it is bordered by two vaults overhanging entrance stairs. Above, a tiered roof with five superimposed levels rises in juxtaposed square surfaces, each level narrower than the one below. The summit is crowned by a multi-tiered metal umbrella, a signature of Burmese architecture.

The Luang Pho San Buddha

Inside the vihara sits Luang Pho San, the temple's principal Buddha. Depicted in lotus position in the attitude of subduing Mara, it bears a flame halo on its chest, much like the celebrated Buddha of Phitsanulok. Its distinctiveness lies in its material: it is made of lacquered and varnished bamboo fibers, a relatively rare technique in Thailand.

The stupa and secondary Buddha

To the southeast of the vihara stands a brick stupa. A flowering niche is set within it, housing a secondary Buddha before which the faithful place incense and offerings. At the stupa's summit, the gilt spire is crowned by a hti, the ornamental umbrella characteristic of Burmese stupas and pagodas. A small museum within the vihara grounds enriches the visit, particularly of interest to travelers with children.

When to visit

Like all of northern Thailand, Phrae is most comfortably visited from November to February, a dry season with moderate temperatures. March and April are hot, and the rainy season (June to October) can complicate two-wheeled travel, the transport often favored to reach the temple. Visitor numbers remain low throughout the year, as the site is not heavily touristed.

Practical information

Admission is nominal for foreigners and free for Thai nationals. The temple is open during daylight hours; it's best to avoid times of ceremony if you wish to move about freely. Allow approximately 1 hour for the visit, longer if you take time to observe details of the timber framework. Dress code requires coverage of shoulders and knees, as in all Buddhist sanctuaries.

How to get there

Phrae is connected to Bangkok by air in approximately 1 hour 15 minutes from Don Muang Airport, with several flights weekly depending on season. An overnight bus from Bangkok is a budget-friendly alternative. Once there, Wat Chom Sawan is located in Thung Kwao subdistrict, about 1 km from City Palace along Route 101. Walking is feasible from the center, otherwise renting a bicycle, scooter, or car from your hotel remains the simplest solution: tuk-tuks are scarce in this part of the country.

In the surrounding area

Phrae has several complementary sanctuaries worth including in a single day's itinerary:

• Wat Sa Bo Kaeo, another Burmese-style temple, 500 meters from Wat Chom Sawan;
• Wat Luang, the city's most renowned Buddhist monument;
• Wat Phrabat Ming Muang Worawihan, in the historic center.

To extend the northern temple theme, Wat Phra That Cho Hae and Wat Phra That Lampang Luang are among the region's must-see stops.

Frequently asked questions

To incorporate Phrae and its Shan temples into a broader itinerary, explore our Thailand trips.