A few kilometers from the center of Ubon Ratchathani, Wat Phra That Nong Bua is recognized by its white chedi highlighted with gold, whose pyramidal silhouette is directly inspired by the great stupa of Mahabodhi in Bodh-Gaya, India. Founded in the mid-1950s, the monastery lacks the patina of the great temples of Isan, but it offers a clear architectural reading of Theravada Buddhist cosmology.

Why visit Wat Phra That Nong Bua

The temple holds interest for three reasons. First, for its chedi, the Sri Maha Pho Chedi, which rises to 56 meters and reproduces in Thailand the form of the Indian sanctuary where the Buddha is said to have achieved enlightenment. Second, for its carved panels illustrating the Buddha's former lives (Jataka), which cover the four faces of the monument. Finally, because it logically complements a circuit around the temples of Ubon Ratchathani, more modest but often more intimate than those in Bangkok or Chiang Mai.

The site is visited by devotees paying homage to the relics preserved inside the chedi, but the atmosphere remains calm most of the time, particularly on weekdays.

History of the temple

Wat Phra That Nong Bua, sometimes abbreviated as Wat Nong Bua, was founded in the mid-1950s by the Dhammayuttika monastic order, a reformist movement within Thai Theravada Buddhism. The main chedi was erected in 1956, on the occasion of the 2500th anniversary of Buddhism's founding, celebrated throughout the Theravada world.

At its initial construction, the monument was of very modest dimensions: approximately 16 feet (4.9 m) wide and 3.3 feet high. It took about a dozen years for it to reach its current height of 56 meters (183 feet), following an expansion campaign designed to faithfully reproduce the proportions of the Indian model. According to tradition maintained by the monastic community, a small casket placed inside the chedi is said to contain bones considered relics of the Buddha.

What to see on site

The Sri Maha Pho Chedi

This is the heart of the visit. The chedi rests on a marble base, framed by four miniature chedis of identical form arranged at the four corners. Rectangular in plan, it narrows by stories before ending in a gilded bell topped with a slender umbrella. The reference to Mahabodhi is explicit: the same emphasized vertical lines, the same carved border, the same symbolism of the enlightenment tree.

On the four faces, ten carved panels distributed in two superimposed rows tell the Jataka, the former lives of the future Buddha when he was still Prince Jataka. The contrast between the light stone and gilded borders makes each scene legible even from a distance. Inside, the reliquary casket is the principal object of veneration.

The ubosot

Neighboring the chedi, the ubosot is the ordination hall where monks receive their vows. Its design is inspired by the Mahaparinirvana temple in Kushinagar, India, the place where the Buddha is said to have entered parinirvana. The building's circular windows are arranged to evoke the three wheels of the Dharma. Inside, nine gilded Buddhist iconographies punctuate the space, and the capitals of the pillars echo the motif of bodhi tree leaves.

The bodhi tree and ancillary buildings

A pagoda fig tree (ficus religiosa), considered the tree of enlightenment by Buddhists, grows within the grounds, between the chedi and ubosot. Several secondary buildings—prayer halls, monks' quarters—complete the complex without rivaling the main monument.

Practical information

• Admission: free, donations welcome.
• Hours: open daily, from sunrise until early evening.
• Duration of visit: allow 45 minutes to 1.5 hours depending on your interest in carved details.
• Dress code: shoulders and legs must be covered. Shoes must be removed before entering prayer halls.
• Behavior: speak softly, do not point fingers at statues, do not turn your back to a Buddha for photos.

When to go

Isan experiences a tropical climate with distinct seasons: cool dry season from November to February (ideal for visiting), hot season through May with temperatures frequently exceeding 35°C, then rainy season from June to October, marked by short but intense showers. Early morning and late afternoon offer the best light on the chedi's gilding.

If possible, time your visit to coincide with the Ubon Candle Festival, held in July during Asalha Puja and the beginning of the Buddhist rains retreat. The city's temples, including Wat Nong Bua, actively participate in processions of carved wax floats.

How to get there

The temple is located approximately 3 km north of Ubon Ratchathani's center. Several options:

• Songthaew: lines 10 and 11 serve the area. Line 10 stops at the intersection leading directly to the temple; line 11 stops about fifty meters before.
• Tuk-tuk or taxi: short and inexpensive trip from the center.
• Bicycle or scooter rental: easy access via main roads, parking on site.

What to see nearby

Ubon Ratchathani and its province hold several complementary sites, accessible in a day trip:

• Wat Si Ubon Rattanaram, the city's central temple housing a topaz Buddha.
• Wat Si Muang and its library built above a basin.
• Wat Ban Na Muang, recognizable by its ubosot shaped like a royal boat.
• Sam Phan Bok, a series of rocky pools on the Mekong, sometimes called the "Grand Canyon of Thailand."
• The Mun River, which flows through the city and offers beautiful late-day boat rides.
• Pha Taem National Park and its prehistoric rock carvings overlooking the Mekong.

Frequently asked questions

Planning your trip

Wat Phra That Nong Bua fits naturally into an itinerary in Isan, a still-underdeveloped region of northeastern Thailand. To build a complete circuit including Ubon Ratchathani, the Mekong, and the Khmer temples of the neighboring province, consult our Thailand travel ideas.