Wat Phumin

Wat Phumin holds a special place in the hearts of Nan's residents and is a must-see attraction for tourists. Enter through one of the temple's four gates and immerse yourself in a mystical world where art, history, and religion harmoniously blend.

History

According to Nan's chronicles, the temple was originally named Wat Phrom Min and later renamed Wat Phumin. Historical records suggest it was established around 1776, during the reign of Chetabut Phrom Min. Significant renovations occurred between 1867 and 1875 under Chao Ananta Vora Ritthi Det, including the creation of the famed murals that contribute to its reputation today. Recognized for its historical and cultural value, Wat Phumin was designated a National Historic Site in 2008.

Visiting Wat Phumin

Finding Wat Phumin is straightforward—it's located just opposite the National Museum, near the night market and Nan's pedestrian street, a short distance from downtown. Don't miss this 250-year-old monument, renowned for its architectural beauty and unique frescoes that continue to captivate.

Architectural Jewel of Nan

Wat Phumin's design deviates from traditional Thai temple architecture. The structure appears to be mounted on two giant serpents known as "Nagas." Another distinctive feature is its four entrances aligned with the cardinal points, each leading to a Buddha statue inside.

The main building serves both as a viharn and an ubosot. Small windows reflect Thaï Lü architectural style, with Lanna influences evident in floral motifs on wooden doors. Gilded artifacts adorn the gables, and meticulously arranged Naga finials grace the roof's ends. At the center, an ornamental spiral umbrella adds a final touch.

Consider the murals

The murals of Wat Phumin are artistic and cultural treasures. Painted by a Thaï Lue artist named Tit Buaphan, they depict Buddhist legends, royal court scenes, traditional rituals, and daily life in 19th-century Nan village. Some scenes are thought-provoking, addressing sensitive aspects of sexuality, such as wedding parades or darker themes. Other murals portray musicians, farmers in fields, tobacco cultivation, and more, offering insights into period clothing styles and popular hairstyles. These paintings were created during Nan's incorporation into Siam, as the kingdom began ceding territories to the French.

One of the most famous paintings at Wat Phumin depicts a tattooed man whispering in a woman's ear, titled "Poo Marn Yar Marn" or "Whispering of Love" in English. Locals also affectionately call it "Grandpa Man and Grandma Man." Tradition holds that couples wishing to strengthen their bond, abundance, and longevity can confess their feelings and pray before this painting.

Enjoy your visit by exploring the temple's small museum, where you can admire local artifacts and traditional clothing. Before you leave, take time to observe artists outside reproducing Wat Phumin's paintings with a contemporary twist. Wander through the park and pick up souvenirs such as paintings, postcards, t-shirts, and keychains from stalls.

How to get there?

Wat Phumin is located near downtown Nan. To reach it, take routes 1080 and Mahayos. After Wat Suan Tan, turn right onto Pha Kong Road and continue past the Nan County Office. The temple will be on your right shortly afterward.

Nan is easily accessible by air or land. You can fly to Nan from Bangkok and other major Thai destinations. Nan's bus terminal also serves buses from the capital, Chiang Mai, and neighboring regions. If driving, Nan is accessible via National Route 1 from Bangkok and National Route 101 from Chiang Mai. The nearest railway stations are Phrae and Den Chai, where you can take a taxi or local bus to Nan.

Opening hours and fees

Tourists can visit the temple, admire the murals, and interact with local artists from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. There is no entrance fee, but it is customary to make a small donation. Don't worry if you're not Buddhist—simply drop your contribution in the small golden box.