Away from central Chiang Mai, at the foot of Doi Suthep, Wat Umong distinguishes itself from other northern temples through its underground tunnels carved beneath an artificial mound and its forested setting. Founded in the late 13th century, it remains an active Buddhist meditation centre today.

Why Visit Wat Umong

Wat Umong, whose full name is Wat Umong Suan Puthatham ("temple of tunnels and Buddha's Dhamma garden"), holds a unique place in Chiang Mai's religious landscape. Where sanctuaries in the old town follow the codes of Lanna art with its viharns and ubosots, this site operates on different principles: a mound pierced by galleries, a forest park scattered with Buddhist quotations, and a large artificial lake.

The atmosphere is serene, far less touristy than Wat Phra Singh or Doi Suthep, and the temple remains inhabited by a community of monks who teach meditation here. It is one of the rare places in Chiang Mai where one can combine heritage visiting with an introduction to Buddhism.

Temple History

Wat Umong's foundation dates back to around 1297, during the reign of King Mengrai, founder of the Lanna kingdom. The temple is believed to have been built for the monk Thera Jan, who sought a retreat outside the city to meditate away from the hustle of urban pagodas. The sovereign had a series of tunnels carved beneath an artificial mound and their walls decorated with brick frescoes, of which only a few fragments remain today.

The sanctuary was abandoned in the 15th century, after King Tilokarat's reign, and fell into obscurity for several centuries. Its restoration dates to 1940. The complex was then repurposed as a meditation centre and Buddhist teaching facility, a role it has maintained since.

What to See On-Site

The Tunnels and Their Frescoes

This is the site's most distinctive feature. Visitors remove their shoes at the entrance before entering a series of brick-vaulted galleries, where several Buddha statues are tucked away. The original frescoes, which depicted scenes from the Buddha's life, are largely faded. Monks still come here to meditate.

The Chedi and the Great Buddha

Above the tunnels stands a campanile-shaped chedi, the only element clearly linked to Lanna architecture on the site. A staircase provides access. Beside it stands a large Buddha depicted as an ascetic fasting, a figure rarely seen in Thai temples.

Buddhist Quotations in the Forest

Along the pathways, plaques attached to trees display sentences attributed to the Buddha, translated into English: "Things are born, evolve and disappear", "Today is preferable to two tomorrows". Together they form a meditative walk that extends beyond the temple proper.

The Ashoka Pillar

The site houses a replica of the Ashoka Pillar, topped with four supporting lions and the Wheel of Dharma. The original pillar stands in India and dates to the 3rd century BC, when Emperor Ashoka, converted to Buddhism, sent religious missions throughout Southeast Asia. This replica recalls the Indian lineage of Theravada Buddhism practised in Thailand.

The Lake and Small Animal Park

A fish-stocked artificial lake occupies part of the grounds. Nearby, a small space shelters a few animals—antelopes, tortoises, ducks, birds—which visitors can feed. It is a pleasant stopping point for families, without pretensions to being a formal zoo.

Discarded Buddha Statues

Throughout the walk, you will notice numerous damaged or broken Buddha statues placed at the base of trees or against small walls. According to local tradition, when a resident replaces a damaged Buddha statue, they bring it here rather than dispose of it. Wat Umong has become, through this custom, a place of reverence for these images destined to blend back into nature.

Meditation with the Monks

The monastery offers informal conversations with monks (in Thai or English) as well as meditation courses and programmes, sometimes spanning several days for experienced practitioners. Details are to be confirmed on-site.

Practical Information

• Opening hours: open daily from morning until late afternoon.
• Admission: free entry, donations appreciated.
• Dress code: shoulders and knees covered, as in all Buddhist temples.
• Visit duration: allow 1.5 to 2 hours to explore the temple, tunnels and park.

When to Visit

The cool and dry season, from November to February, offers the most pleasant conditions: moderate temperatures and accessible pathways. From March to May, heat is intense and the air sometimes heavy with agricultural smoke. The rainy season (June to October) makes the forest particularly lush but exposes visitors to showers in late afternoon. Early morning is when the site is quietest and the light in the tunnels softest.

How to Get There

Wat Umong lies approximately 5 km southwest of Chiang Mai's historic centre, on the edge of Doi Suthep. Several options are available:

• Red songthaew: the most common and cheapest option from the old town.
• Tuk-tuk or taxi: quick; it is recommended to ask the driver to wait, as the return journey is more difficult from the temple.
• Bicycle or scooter: a feasible journey from the old town for independent travellers.

Nearby Combinations

• Wat Suan Dok: on the route between the old town and Wat Umong, famous for its white chedis.
• Wat Pha Lat: another forest temple, halfway up Doi Suthep.
• Chiang Mai Zoo: a few kilometres away, more structured than Wat Umong's small animal park.
• Wat Phra Singh: the great Lanna temple in the historic centre, a useful contrast to Wat Umong.

Frequently Asked Questions

To integrate Wat Umong into a broader itinerary across northern Thailand, explore our Thailand trips.